DIY Rustic Farmhouse Table (IKEA Hack)

Guest post by my amazing hubby again!

So the last time I wrote a piece it was for the IKEA Hack Rustic Coffee Table. That table was a breeze compared to this one, which will really put some hair on your chest. It really is pretty simple in theory, but you need some heavy duty construction know-how to pull this off successfully (Thanks Dad!).

Can you believe that we turned this:
Into this ?!?!?!

Depending on the type of wood you buy, this project should cost you under $300 total. We went for premium pine and the bottom line was a hefty sum, but definitely worth a handmade table that will last us the rest of our lives.

What you will need:

  • 2 IKEA Ingo Tables ($138 total – $69 each)
  • Polyurethane ($8)
  • Wood Stain ($8)
  • Wood Screws ($15)
  • 6 planks of 2″x8″ Wood (for the top of the table)
  • A bunch of 1″x3″ wood (for the framing and apron)
  • Sander/Sandpaper ($3)

Here is how you do it!

Step 1: Head over to your favorite blue and yellow meatball shop, and pick up 2 Ingo tables (or any number of any size table you want). But you should probably go big or go home. Grab your tools and spend a few weeks assembling your tables, or bribe your husband/boyfriend to do it for you in about an hour.

Step 2: This is the most important step! Lay out your top wood planks to come up with a plan for how many you want to use across. Remember, you will have a few vertical planks making up the table, but will cap each end off with a horizontal plank. You must be super careful in measuring and planning your end result out. We went with 5  2″x8″s across. If you want more overhang, you could pull off using 6 planks instead.

Step 3: Now it’s time to attach your IKEA tables together. Do this by using one of the 1″x3″ planks and screw it over the seam of the two tables. It doesn’t matter what it looks like, because the bigger planks will cover all of this up. The only goal here is to secure the two IKEA tables together.

Step 4: Now that you have the two tables screwed together, it’s time to turn this little boy into a man. Build the foundation. Here you will need to build a sub frame using some 1″×3″s. You could skip this step if you want, but we felt this was really important to the final look. This is the foundation of the table and this will be the sub frame that can support those big heavy planks and allow the table to be as wide and majestic as a mama Grizzly Bear. You can make your table as wide as you want, but the important part here is that each board is the same width so you have the same amount of table hanging over each side.

Ours ended up being about 42″ wide.

Step 5: Time to get that beard growing and bust out your power saw! Hopefully you measured as suggessted in Step 2, but now is a good time to measure one last time, on top of your subframe. You want to figure out how much overhang you want. So you lay your planks out side by side and get a measurement of how much it hangs over on each side of the table. Then make sure you use that same hangover on the ends of the table and measure out where you want to put your end caps. That should give you the measurement that you need to cut each plank of wood, taking into account that the endcaps are also 8″ wide. Crack open a beer, let out a roar and start making some sawdust!

Step 6: You might have noticed in the picture under Step 4, you should add an apron around the sub frame. This is not structurally required, but is definitely aesthetically pleasing and I recommend it. Measure some 1″x3″ planks so that you can attach them to the sides of the sub frame all the way around the table. (See image under Step 4).

Step 7: Very important! This will hopefully be a table that gets much use, and unless you are a ninja turtle and like chillin’ with Master Splinter, sand it down and round the edges. Cowabunga dude!

Step 8: Once the boards are smooth enough that you would be comfortable to lick, lay them out on top of the subframe. Get your final layout set, and start screwing them on from the bottom. You want your wood screws to be long enough to go through the IKEA table, the subframe, and about a 1/4 inch of the top plank. You want them to secure the top planks, but not break through.

Step 9: Wanna make your table look super boho/rustic/vintage? I know The Vintage Blonde did. And this was the step she enjoyed the most. Distress the wood! Call it names, make it take a test, stick it in rush hour traffic. Terrible dad joke, I only have a few more months to practice. To distress the table, take some screws, nuts, and bolts and hammer them in. go to town. It leaves some awesome designs and really add some cool details to the table up close.

Step 10: Stain your table (of course wearing gloves so it doesnt look like you just changed 14 diapers after taco night). The more stain you use, the darker the table gets. We went with about 4 coats of Jacobean wood stain.

Step 11: You’re going to want to be able to easily clean up food and spills off the table, so apply 2-3 coats of polyurethane to seal it.

(Optional) Step 12: We used a bunch of 2″x4″s and my engineer genius dad built some “simple” benches to go along with the table. I could not have done this in a million years, and would not expect anyone to be able to. But if you’re a construction wizard, go for it.

Congrats! You officially now have a ridiculous awesome table that everyone will be jealous of! And nobody will believe that you built it. and you are probably exhausted, and have palms made of sandpaper. Grab a beer, wash your beard, and change into a different flannel shirt.

Here are some more pics of the finished product:






One Comment

Add yours →

  1. 👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *